Dedicated to my friend Bentley gourmand two steps.
We left on Sunday morning with Fredi and Marc to Côtes du Rhône . The next day witnesses of the Marché aux vins d'Ampuis , home to most of the producers of Côte Rôtie and Condrieu to present and sell their wines to the public. We had seven hours ahead on a super car, the best company and the gift of the landscape, that as Catalunya left behind became more handsome. As always in winter, when passing the border dismantled Jonqueras the Canigou Canigou for some or for others, we were greeted with snow across its top.
Up to a certain point because I recognized the landscape had been there several times. To visit Arles and surroundings, to go well with Fredi and Marc to Roussillon to visit Gauby, Lubbe and Fhal and earlier in a spiritual journey with Stefan Lismond when we attended Vinexpo . I'm familiar with the landscape wine from France and I like more and more. They are educated and know their culture preserving and projecting beyond that for these low areas on the pricey Marseille, Le Pen and his heir, have followers that fit many votes at the polls. It must be that there is also bad wine, but thankfully, that is hopeless. Anyway as I was saying.
Was I failing to recognize the landscape and went softly to the discovery phase, I marveled at from the back seat, when suddenly and within hours, the Rhone elbow appeared gray and pouring. The Rhone down from the north to the right leaning over the mountains of the Massif Central and the left margin waters give life to the most prized wine regions of the world. From Lyon to Avignon forms the region known as Côtes du Rhône, but the encounter with the river Isère at the height of Croze Hermitage , geography clearly part and therefore the characteristic terroir wines. It is in the northern region of the river that runs from Croze Hermitage to Côte Rôtie that extreme work on Syrah to virtuosity.
I gave myself no more flows of the Rhone and the vision of the hills and rows combed hundred percent devoid of any vestige of foliage when we arrived at our Gite and then went to visit a producer, by whose name I did not recognize, but seeing him, he and I, we knew it was not the first time. We agreed on an unforgettable party? chez Priorat in Torroja Ebben Dominik Hubert and Sadie .
Laurent Combier has an air of Mourinho and I had to make an effort to take away the vision of the head. He worked a lot. It was almost eight in the evening, the cold was impossible and invited us to the winery to taste the Syrah. And this was more than enough. Combier is appearing and growing with each test barrel. We were trying wines from one of the pioneers in working domaine organic farming in Crozes Hermitage , when the natural for the time (1970) was the application of chemical treatments for everything. It was his father who challenged the establishment and he took the witness with honor. They say they do things characterized finesse and go deeper, which is a great reader and has a keen sense of observation. And also, can do, resists that good wine is something only for the elite. I attest these sensations produced Laurent Combier, both feel their voice as to perceive his aura when he speaks of the folds immemorial soil and subsoil of their plots, but also when a truffle stripe.
In Spain, in Priorat, we are fortunate to have called the attention and him working together with his inseparable Jean-Michel Gerin (Cote Rotie / Condrieu) and Peter Fischer (Coteaux d'Aix en Provence) from 2002, in the Trio Infernal .
As I am not Alice Feiring , I was tired taste very heavy, after so many hours driving in inclement weather and in a language they do not master as I would like above all to ask. My body and my soul were on one side and my good manners kept me type. Great, because what came over the next hour and a half was the tasting of 23 tests of barrels from different plots located mainly in and something Croze Hermitage in Saint Joseph, of different vintages, and of course with different goals for either your cuvee, domaine and clos. Also two bottle tasted a 2008 and the other do not remember.
It was fascinating lesson soil science gave us Laurent Combier with each cup. It was the realization that serious wine is made in the ground and the more rapport you have the grower with it, you can extract the best. And the same applies to super specialized work on a variety, in this case, the Syrah. When you get to the point of conocmiento of your country, your plants and their fruit and amounts to years of experience, is probable and likely just that your wines conmuevan and make you want to tell. In case this is discretely Combier eloquent.
Its vineyards are located right where the river runs into the Rhône Isère and joins him. In that there is a very active meander pedological and consequently appear almost white boulders rather give the impression that someone deliberately, I would have brought her here. The meeting of two rivers causes microclimate and especially a floor Characteristics blesses only a few acres within which is Domaine Combier. After nearly two hours of tasting after that I felt like Rutger Hauer in Blade Runner. He will have seen the flames of Orion but I spent considerable evidence Syrah 23.
And in the end it was the heat and caliu. Truffles with bread, oil and salt and then a pot au feu prepared with elegant sense of hospitality by Mme. Combier. It was so simple and delicious, with vegetables or orchards near you, do not be, and meat from a butcher quirky but it certainly has material first. The meat melted in strands no more look and vegetables known to celery and carrot super expressive.
The pot au feu in my country is called Minga pout and my grandmother did every Monday for years of years leaving indelible sensory brand, so when I saw that pot was like Proust's madeleine, memory went back to childhood times and adolescence and early adulthood that there was more responsibility than the school performance and wash dishes after eating.
The conversation when the word escaped me sulfites began to spin in the air and linguistic mishap that suddenly became the best alibi. For physical and mental fatigue had no capacity to receive them as they deserved Laurent opened wines. Gevrey-Chambartin, Barbera d'Alba, Saumur-Champigny, Bourgogne, some vintages and others, in short, everything you could imagine. We were exhausted and happy. The next day we left early to bed and after a breakfast of coffee and croissant comme il faut, we begin a long day of tasting wines from Coteaux d'Aix en Provence to Côte Rôtie, ie shallow panorma wines of Côtes du Rhone.
These unusual circumstances are extraordinary. A privilege that somehow one is looking or harvest. No invitation Fredi Torres this trip would not have been possible in this way. I told you in private and public do. Merci bien cher ami!